So, let's dive in and discover when to reach for that primer, and when you can skip this step in your prep.
Let's begin with raw timber surfaces. When you're dealing with a beautiful, untouched piece of wood, using a primer or prep coat comes down to a few things.
Raw timber tends to have a porous surface that can absorb paint unevenly, leading to a blotchy finish. By applying a primer like Vintage Bird Multi-tasking Prep Coat, you create a smooth, uniform base that helps the paint adhere better and ensures a flawless, professional-looking result.
You may also find you will need to use more paint on raw timber surfaces, and again, priming first will help. It's recommended if you want a smooth, streak free finish.
Milk Paint, on the other hand, or our Furniture Paint used as a stain or wash, doesn't need to be primed first. Milk Paint loves raw timber, and will sink into the surface like a stain, bonding with the surface. It will create a different once dry to our mineral Furniture Paint on raw timber.
When painting using primer, try not to overload your brush and use long, light strokes when possible. Vintage Bird's Prep Coat doesn't require sanding before you paint, but if you can see obvious brush stroke marks when it's dried, you may need to give it a very light sand before proceeding with your first coat of paint.
Try to add less paint to the brush next time, as obvious brush marks are possibly a sign of an overloaded brush, or putting too much downward pressure on the bristles when painting.
You can see the very light brush marks left on the painted surface in this video. These are slight enough that they will dry to a smooth finish when the prep coat is thoroughly dry.
The best technique is 'gently does it'!
What if you're working with a piece that has been previously painted? Here's where the decision-making becomes a bit trickier. If the existing paint is in good condition, without any visible stains, chipping, or peeling, you might be able to skip the primer step and just give the surface a thorough clean, and quick scuff sand to create adequate traction for the paint to adhere to.
However, if you're dealing with a heavily distressed or damaged surface, it's best to apply a primer. It will help to even out the color, provide a stable foundation, and prevent any stains or imperfections from bleeding through your new paint job. Instances where I use a primer on pre-painted finishes are when I'm painting with white, or another light colour, or when the surface is resistant to the paint bonding with it, such as very smooth satin finishes, or laminate, metal, etc... In these instances I always thoroughly scuff sand and use Multi-Tasking Prep Coat, or Bird's Special Bond to prime.
For older vintage pieces of furniture, or things that have experienced quite a bit of wear and tear, I recommend priming after cleaning and sanding to help even out any minor surface scratches, and other imperfections. Don't try to fill deep holes or large scratches and gouges with primer however - areas like this need to be repaired with an appropriate wood filler, then sanded and lastly, primed. Stains like ink, water marks, light (cleaned) oil stains, discolouration from sun damage, and scuff marks can be covered effectively with good quality water based primers. If you can see stains like those in this image (courtesy of Pinterest), it's likely it is tannin bleed, and needs a different treatment. Find out more below...
Choosing whether to use a primer or paint directly on your furniture depends on various factors, such as the type of timber, the surface condition, and the presence of imperfections or stains. Remember, a little extra effort in the beginning can save you time and frustration later on. When in doubt, it's generally a safer bet to use a primer, especially if you want a flawless, long-lasting finish.
If you're painting timber that is naturally prone to tannin bleed, you may need to consider using a shellac/oil based primer to ensure the surface is sealed. Tannins are resinous/oily, so need an oil based sealer. If using one of these primers, please ensure you wear P.P.E, and work in a well ventilated area. In most cases, you won't need to take this step. A little detective work about your furniture piece will give you more clues. Timbers that are prone to tannin bleed are Indonesian teak, silky oak, rosewood, and knotty pine species such as cypress, or hoop pine.
Our Australian made prep coat is non-toxic and low/no VOC, making it safe for you and the environment. Its quick-drying formula means you can move swiftly through your project without having to wait for hours. With Vintage Bird Multi-tasking Prep Coat, you'll achieve excellent adhesion, prevent most stain type bleed-through, and ensure a smooth, long-lasting finish.
BEST SELLER
An all in one primer, sealer, and undercoat to help with perfecting your furniture painting prep.
This is a white primer, stain blocker and adhesive bond developed specifically for furniture painting.
As with all our Vintage Bird Brand products, this is developed and made in Australia.
Returns Guarantee & Free Exchanges.
An all in one primer, sealer, and undercoat to help with perfecting your furniture painting prep.
This is a white primer, stain blocker and adhesive bond developed specifically for furniture painting.
As with all our Vintage Bird Brand products, this is developed and made in Australia.
Would you like to read more handy how to and DIY tips?
Click here to check out all our previous blogs. You'll find everything from painting technique tips, help to work out how much paint you need, how to care for your brushes, and lots more!
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